Your mountain bike has many moving parts. Frequent off-road riding usually results in some of these moving parts becoming loose, covered with grime or requiring some form of adjustment. It then becomes necessary for you to regularly check over your bike to prevent and cure any problems. I needn’t really say that after a muddy ride you should give your bike a thorough clean, and lubricate your drive-train etc.


1. WHEELS

You should check your Tyres occasionally for correct tyre inflation. The correct ‘psi’ is normally written on the sidewall of the tyre. You will be the first to know when your tyres are worn out – grip will be minimum and tears and regular punctures are obvious signs of a worn out tyre. You should also check that all your spokes are tight and that there are no loose or broken ones. Consult your local bike shop for repairs or replacements, or drop us a mail, headed HELP to bucks_mtb@hotmail.com. You should also check your rims for dents and buckles, fix or replace as necessary. Consult your local bike shop for repairs or replacements.


2. QUICK RELEASES
Your wheels: check that wheel quick releases are tight but not adding stress to chainstays or forks. They should be adjusted so that the quick release lever starts to become tight just after it becomes parallel to the axle. The lever should be positioned so that it is as flush or as in-line as possible with the dropouts/fork leg. Also check the quick-release seat clamp on your seatpost for its tightness and security. An insufficiently tight seatpost can be the cause of some groans and creaks. Also check that the seatpost itself is greased, but not too much otherwise it will sink during riding!


3. BRAKES

Check your brake pads for excessive wear. V-brake pads mostly have grooves in them. Once the pad is worn down to the level of the bottom of the grooves, it is time to replace the pad. Disc brake pads are in need of replacing when there is 0.5 to 1mm of pad remaining, or when braking is insufficient or you hear the sound of metal on metal when braking (caused when there is no pad left and pad backing plate rubs on disc rotor).
Hydraulic brake systems should be checked for good operation. Spongy feeling brakes usually mean that there is air in the system, and they should be bled and topped up with hydraulic fluid – consult your local bike shop or manual.
Cables - check for damaged and seized cables, cleaning and lubricating the cable in its outer casing, or replacing the cable as necessary. If your cable is fraying replace immediately.


4. GEARS
check for correct shifting; if it is necessary adjust the high and low stops on mechs. Consult your local bike shop or manual if unsure. Your cables - check for damaged and seized cables, and occasionally clean and lubricate the cable in its outer casing, or replacing the cable as necessary.
Rear Mech Hanger - ensure it is straight and not bent, secured to the frame and that the rear mech is securely fastened to it. Replacements are available if yours is damaged.


5. CHAIN
Clean and Lubricate your chain fairly frequently depending on how much riding you do. The chain should be free of grime. Use an appropriate chain oil/lube for the time of year. Dry oil/lube for dry dusty conditions and wet oil/lube for muddy winter conditions. Only oil/lube the inner links. The chain links; check any previously repaired links, and replace if damaged.


6. CHAINSET & CRANKS

Check that the bolts holding the chainset and cranks on to the bottom bracket axle are tight and secure. Any movement within the crankset and/or bottom bracket consult your local bike shop. Loose bolts are often the cause creaks coming from the bottom bracket area. Check that the bolts holding the chain rings onto the drive-side crank spider are also tight and secure. Damaged chain rings can be replaced. For downhill & duel style chain cages check that its not bent or that the chain is restricted. After heavy blows to the crankset, check for any movement.


7. PEDALS
Pedal axles: check that your pedals are securely bolted into the cranks (but do not over tighten, and tighten if necessary using a 15mm pedal wrench. Remember the opposite way rounds for tightening for left and right-hand side pedals.

If your running SDP pedals, check the cleats on your shoes too and replace if necessary


8. SEATPOST & SADDLE
Check that your seatpost is greased and that it is held tightly by the seatpost collar. Also check that the clamp holding the saddle is tight - a cause of creaks!


9. HEADSET
Once again, check for correct adjustment. Check for any movement in the headset when the bike is rocked back and forth with the front brake on. Adjust as necessary. Re-grease bearings regularly.

 

10. SUSPENSION
For air spring/air assisted suspension forks/shocks check that the air pressure is correct, using a shock pump to top up as necessary. Check manuals for pressures.  Suspension fork stanchions should be examined for any damage, such as deep scratches causing loss of oil or air. Check the lower sliders too. Many of them are made from magnesium and paint chips should be touched up as soon as possible. Lubricate the fork seals and stanchions with the recommended shock oil, as required. If unsure consult your local bike shop, as they have all the required tools, info and knowledge.