METHOD:

1. LUBE IT UP

The first thing to do is replace that thin dry lube that you’ve been using all summer and get some ‘wet’ lube that can cope with winter riding. When you oil your chain, lube the inside links only. If you cover the entire chain, loads of gunge will stick to it and stop it from working to its full potential.

2. SLIM DOWN OR BEEF UP?

In thick mud you have two tyre options; fat to go over or thin to go through. A set of thin tyres of around 1.8in is normally a good choice – Panaracer™ Fire Mud tyres are 1.8in and are a fantastic choice – they are lightweight and allow great mud clearance through the rear stays & fork legs. If you are going for fat tyres they’re heavier to start with. You would need to pick tyres at least 2.1in, but 2.3in would be the better option. Be warned those of you with lightweight XC hardtail race bikes or American frames may not be able to fit tyres over 2.1in due to your restricted chain stay clearance. Our recommendation is thinner mud tyres for winter. Keep the wide tyres for summer runs.

3. GREASE IT UP

The obvious increased chance of your bike getting wet in the winter means there is more of a chance of damaging your bearings, so make sure they get a good coating of waterproof grease. You should pay attention to any areas on your bike that have exposed bearings

The best way to is to buy a grease gun from the likes of finish line for around £12 to be able to grease every bearing, nook and cranny...

Companies such as Lizard Skin make various neoprene covers for suspension stanchions, headset cups, chainstays, rear shocks. These can be a good cheap buy to help protect your bike parts through the muddy winters.

4. CATCH LOADS OF MUD

Mudguards are an affordable must have essential for off road riding in winter. Some guard’s look too OTT, but smaller guards from the likes of the Crud Catcher™ range offer simplicity and good looks as well as good value for money, and the best thing is they actually work!

For those of you running twin crowned forks motoX style fenders look great and work a treat, and those of you with Marzocchi™ forks can fit the specific Marzocchi™ fender which looks cool and keeps the shape of the crown (on specific models). For those of you not, whats wrong with the good old cheap and effective method of a cut down inner tube and some zip ties...

5. WRAP UP

Your seat-post is one area most susceptible to damage in winter. Without a rear mudguard mud layers on easily and gives moisture an easy task of entering the frame. An old piece of a road inner tube slide over the whole seat tube junction is a great inexpensive trick that acts as a waterproof seal. Similarly a piece of tape wrapped around the seat collar/clamp gives a great temporary seal that can be replaced easily & quickly. This is a worthwhile quick fix as any water running down into the frame can sit there and start rust or even freeze and start cracks through the winter.

6. YOUR HEADSET

The bottom brace of your headset is another venerable area that is at risk from spray off the front wheel. Once again an old piece of inner tube, tape or a specific cover from the likes of Lizard Skins™ can protect water from entering.  The bearings in the bottom cup of the headset would still benefit from a good coating of waterproof grease. Do remember to remove excess grease once you have replaced your fork into the frame

7. SADDLES

More of a note for downhill racers than anyone, but if riding or racing in really bad mud you may find it hard to get grip on your saddle - an old tyre can provide some help. Cut about a 6in section out of the tyre, remove the sidewalls if necessary and zip tie it to the top of your saddle. The tyre knobs should help your shorts catch a grip...!

8. CLEANING

A must do! After every ride in mud conditions its more than just a good idea to clean the bike and make sure you get rid of the water out of moving parts and then relube it afterwards. Check out our recommended cleaning and lubing guide Click Here