Tools for the job:
Allen Keys
Grease & gun
Flat head
screwdriver Cloth
Possibly circlip pliers
Difficulty:
́́
Time:
20mins
A breakdown of your headset (Note cartridge bearings shown not
loose ball bearings)
|
|
HEADSET SERVICE (LOOSE BALL)
Servicing a "LOOSE BALL" bearing headset
Ignoring the myths and the
thought of loosing ball bearings down the crack in the floor (so easy to do!!)
servicing a headset is a pretty simple job and it is certainly something that
you should do regularly, especially if you have a lesser quality budget headset
fitted.
Headsets really are one of those components where it pays to invest in a quality
one - going slightly better will give a much better quality and life, and
reduced servicing. The low end cheap variety of headsets are usually poorly
sealed and don’t last as long as the more expensive headsets that feature
superior seals and cartridge bearings.
These headsets are termed 'loose ball type' but the bearings are most normally
found housed in a 'cage'. Always service the headset with the forks removed from
the bike. If your wanting to service a sealed cartridge bearing headset view our
tech guide here
"Cartridge Bearing Headset Service"
Working on a headset
can be a fiddly job, it is do able without the use of a work stand, I personally
don't normally use a work stand myself, but its made a lot easier and we
recommend that you use a work stand for this task.
1. Strip down the front of
the bike - remove top cap, stem/bars and then remove the forks
2. Remove all of the headset
parts one by one and lay all the bits out in order so you know which way they go
back on when you come to re-assemble - if in doubt take photos as you go or draw
a picture so that you can work backwards and get the headset back together
properly.
3. Remove the complete
bearing assembly from the cups. Wipe away all of the old grease, degreasing and
cleaning out the cups with a rag. You may need to soak the bearings in a good
degreaser for a while if they are very dirty. Also inspect the bearing surfaces
for damage. Check both cups in the frame and the crown race on the fork. A worn
silver surface is fine but if there’s any sign of pitting (chipped look), you
will need to replace the headset.
4. A grease gun is a useful tool
to have at hand for the next step. Fill the cups with good quality grease, we
recommend Finish Line Grease. New bearings are fairly inexpensive and we would
always recommend fitting new ones when doing a half decent attempt at a headset
service – ask at your local bike store if you unsure of the size of bearings -
you can always measure them using a precise digital gauge if not (not a
ruler!!!).
5. Once bearing cups are
cleaned and greased and bearings are re fitted you can then re-assemble the
headset hopefully back in the correct order!! Remembering what order the seals
and clips etc went and that they are all properly in place. Wipe up any excess
grease
6. Refit the fork and reassemble
the stem/bar assembly. You can now replace the top cap and nut and preload the
cap. Always make sure the top of the steerer sits below the top of the stem –
this should be a gap of about 3mm. That gap is very important and allows the
preload cap to push down on the stem, which compresses the headset to remove the
play. With the bike on the floor, preload the headset (tighten top cap) until
all the play is removed, but not so much that the headset binds. A properly
adjusted headset should spin freely and have no play or tight spots.
7. Check for 'play'
in the headset. Don’t mistake play in
the headset for play in the fork. A good tip is to engage the front brake, place
your other hand around the bottom cup and rock the bike back and forth. If you can
feel any 'play' that’s coming from the headset - normally a sign the headset is
worn (at least the bearings are shot) and need replacing
|
