Tech Tip 18

HEADSET SERVICE
Servicing a "LOOSE BALL" bearing headset

Tools for the job:
Allen Keys, grease, grease gun (recommended), small flat head screwdriver or knife, cloth

Difficulty:
ìì

Time:
10-20mins

Ignoring the myths and the thought of loosing ball bearings down the crack in the floor (so easy to do!!) servicing a headset is a pretty simple job and it is certainly something that you should do regularly, especially if you have a lesser quality budget headset fitted.

Headsets really are one of those components where it pays to invest in a quality one - going slightly better will give a much better quality and life, and reduced servicing. The low end cheap variety of headsets are usually poorly sealed and don’t last as long as the more expensive headsets that feature superior seals and cartridge bearings.

These headsets are termed loose ball type but the bearings are most normally found housed in a cage. Always service the headset with the forks removed from the bike. If your wanting to service a sealed cartridge bearing headset view our tech guide here "Cartridge Bearing Headset Service"

Working on a headset can be a fiddly job, it is do able without the use of a work stand, I personally don't normally use a work stand myself, but its made a lot easier and we recommend that you use a work stand for this task.

1. Strip down the front of the bike - remove top cap, stem/bars and then remove the forks

2. Remove all of the headset parts one by one and lay all the bits out in order so you know which way they go back on when you come to re-assemble - if in doubt take photos as you go or draw a picture so that you can work backwards and get the headset back together properly.

3. Remove the complete bearing assembly from the cups. Wipe away all of the old grease, degreasing and cleaning out the cups with a rag. Then inspect the bearing surfaces for damage. Check both cups in the frame and the crown race on the fork. A worn silver surface is fine but if there’s any sign of pitting (chipped look), you will need to replace the headset sadly

4. A grease gun is a useful tool to have at hand for the next step. Fill the cups with good quality grease, we recommend Finish Line Grease. New bearings are fairly inexpensive and we would always recommend fitting new ones when doing a half decent attempt at a headset service – ask at your local bike store if you unsure of the size of bearings - you can always measure them using a precise digital gauge if not (not a ruler!!!).

5. Once bearing cups are cleaned and greased and bearings are re fitted you can then re-assemble the headset hopefully back in the correct order!! Remembering what order the seals and clips etc went and that they are all properly in place. Wipe up any excess grease

6. Refit the fork and reassemble the stem/bar assembly. You can now replace the top cap and nut and preload the cap. Always make sure the top of the steerer sits below the top of the stem – this should be a gap of about 3mm. That gap is very important and allows the preload cap to push down on the stem, which compresses the headset to remove the play. With the bike on the floor, preload the headset (tighten top cap) until all the play is removed, but not so much that the headset binds. A properly adjusted headset should spin freely and have no play or tight spots.

7. Check for play in the headset. Don’t mistake play in the headset for play in the fork. A good tip is to engage the front brake, place your other hand around the bottom cup and rock the bike back and forth. You can feel any play that’s coming from the headset - normally a sign the headset is worn (at least the bearings are shot) and needs replacing